Sniper-16 HD

DV8 Sniper & Sniper 16HD Auto-Sync Switching

Overview Switching between the 8mm and the 16mm units requires some additional set up since the 16mm unit has been upgrade to the auto-sync feature.   Both units still connect to Flag via a switch box behind Flag's monitor.  However, the audio connection (behind the Flag tower) needs to be manually reconfigured and some software settings need to be changed when switching between machines.

Video Connection

The physical video connection is changed at the switch box behind Flag's monitor.   (box orientation with the switch in the top half)  Switch to the Left for 8mm and to the Right for 16mm.

Audio Connection

The Blackmagic Intensity Pro capture card has a right audio in and a left audio in.  A 'Y' cable merges the left and right into one connection.  This connection (at the end of the 'Y') connects to either the 8mm or 16mm audio cable.  The 8mm cable has a yellow end and the cable is fatter than most.  The 16mm cable is the red & black end of a double cable (white & black end is not used).

BTW I tried connecting the two audio cables from the 8mm and 16mm using a Y to the other Y and this did work until the 16mm was upgraded to the auto-sync....now it will not work with both plugged in.  Eventually I need to replace the switch box with one that can handle audio and video and that will simplify the set up.

CineCap Velocity HD Switches

There are two settings that must be changed when switching between the 16mm unit and the 8mm unit or vice-versa.  Both setting are on the "settings" tab and in the "Capture Settings" box.

1) capture device - configure button:

8mm:  Video format must be:  HD1080 29.97PsF 8-bit 4:2:2

16mm:  Video format must be:  HD1080 30PsF 8-bit 4:2:2

2) auto-sync box:

8mm:  Must be UNCHECKED

16mm:  Must be CHECKED

Sniper Units' Maintenance

Overview This is a general guide into issues and how to resolve and general tips on maintenance.

Cleaning the Lens

Use a lens cleaning cloth to clean the lens every time you use the units.  The 16mm unit can easily be clean with a finger and the cloth.  The 8mm unit does not have enough space to use a finger and cloth so I use a Q-tip with the cloth on the end of it.  I also use a flashlight shining across the lens to see if it is clean.

Lube 8mm Shafts

At the front of the machine, pull the reels off.  Pull the shaft out as far as it goes and put a couple of drips of sewing machine oil on the shaft behind the shaft flange.  Move the shaft in and out and spin it to get the oil all over the shaft.  Careful to get oil else where.  Clean up extra oil.

8mm unit races and then goes back to normal

This may be resolved by cleaning the sensor.

  1. Take the back of the unit
  2. Locate the wheel with the white knob that is located sort-of in the centre of the unit and to the left of the motor.  The white knob its attached to a black wheel that has a slot/key cut into it.  Line the slot up to the sensor (so that the sensor is "open").  Then use compressed air to clean the sensor.

8mm Unit Take-up Reel Stops and Starts

Open the back of the unit.  Lightly sand the edge black wheel (top left) at the end of the take-up reel shaft.  Also, lightly sand the part of the white wheel that contacts the black wheel.  Wash both parts with alcohol.  Take a photo of the belt and replace the belt as per photo.

8mm Unit Starts Slow And Then Comes To Speed

Usually after a break of using the machine (1 hour or more) when the motor starts the machine starts up slow and then slowly gets up to speed.  At first I thought it may be slipping belts.  Problem is dry or sticking "transmisson".   Check to make sure the transmission shaft has enough play by going to the back of the unit and pushing and pulling the white knob...you should see the cam on the front move in and out from the face of the unit.  A few drops of sewing machine oil should be added on the shaft that is visible between the back of the cam "plate" and the front of the unit (about 1/8" space).  Move shaft in and out and manually turn it and let it soak in.  After soaking run the motor on and off a few times.  I applied the oil a couple of times to make sure enough got on the shaft....can't get the nozzle close to the shaft so "accurate" dripping is the best one can do.  CLEAN the oil reside from the front of the unit.

Clean the 16mm unit's Audio drum

Every time a job is started one should clean the audio drum using a paper towel and some rubbing alcohol.  The drum is a silver round object about 1" in diameter located in the film path just above the "treble" knob.  Put some rubbing alcohol on the paper towel and place the towel on the drum.  Then rotate the drum by hand until the drum has been cleaned.

Setting the 16mm Unit Timing Wheel

When the scanning encounters flutters or blurrs it usually means that the timing wheel is not set correctly.

  • should not move the wheel more than the thickness of the slot (in the timing wheel)
  • alignment should be....
    • select the "play" position on the knob so that the claw shows through the slot
    • move the claw to the bottom of the slot by rotating the DC motor shaft up and toward oneself (standing at the back)
    • the timing wheel slot should be coming down into the gap (I found the sweet spot to be the slot's leading edge just coming into the gap)

16mm Garbled Audio

Issue....after transferring the optical audio the audio sounds garbled.  Like this example going from good to garbled:

[audio mp3="http://www.lifetimeheritagefilms.com/knowledgebase/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/good_to_garbled_audio.mp3"][/audio]

   Solution

Make sure the bottom loop in the film path has a loop.  The loop at the top of the film path is normally fine.  However the loop at the bottom is sometimes tight around the roller and this causes the garbled sound.  How to:

  • Make a larger than normal loop at the top and close the switch half way from STOP to PLAY.
  • Then pull a bit of the loop down from the top to the bottom.
  • Then move the switch to PLAY
  • Should now have a good loop at the top and bottom (better to generous than not).

Sometimes the top and bottom loop shrink when hitting a bad splice....watch for this as the audio may go garbled....this is what happened in the above example.

 

Film File Sizes - why is one bigger than the other?

Pupose: Sometimes customers ask why one file size is bigger than the other with regards to film transfer file sizes and different fps.  Here's an answer/explanation that may help.

Answer:

As for the file size, that all has to do with the fps and the corresponding pull-down that is applied to the file based on the fps selected.  Basically, standard video is at 30fps (29.97) and this is the file that we are seeing.  Now depending on the fps selected, the video will have multiples of the film frame in the final file.  For example, if the file is processed at 10fps there will be 3 copies of each frame, if at 15fps there will be 2 copies of each frame, and at 30fps there will only be one copy of each frame.  16fps, 18fps, and 24fps do not evenly go into 30fps so they will be further complicated by adding pull-down frames to pad them to 30fps.  Therefore, in summary, a 16fps speed file will be larger than a 24P file just due to the number of frames.

I hope that I’ve explained it clearly enough….I know it took me a while to understand it at first.

Reference:

Further info can be found in a document:  User Data\TMM\Research\16mm transfer units\Film Transfer process.docx

16mm Sound Film Pointers

Purpose This article focuses on transferring 16mm sound film.

What Can We Transfer

We can only transfer 16mm film with an optical sound track.

How Can You Identify Sound Film

16mm sound film has sprockets only on one side of the film.  Be aware though that sometimes the leader may not be the same as the film.  I have encountered silent film leader (sprockets on both side of the film) and then the film was a sound film (sprockets only on one side).   An optical sound track runs along the film on the opposite side to the sprocket holes.  The optical track looks like a dark and light wave pattern running along the edge of the film.

Preparation

  1. Mount the film on the rewinders with the empty take-up reel on the crank winder.
  2. Check to make sure the film is on the reel correctly:
    1. Emulsion side should be facing up...on the outside of the reel.
    2. For sound film the sprockets should be away from the rewinder stands.
    3. Sometimes the leader will say "header" or "trailer"....if it says trailer then the film is more than likely backward on the reel.
  3. Check the leader of the film to make sure it has about 3 feet of leader.
  4. Clean the film on the rewinders using the Solvon solution and a rag.
  5. Rewind after cleaning.
  6. Clean the Sniper-16 HD's:
    1. Gate using compressed air
    2. all the other track areas using compressed air
    3. wipe the lens with a lens cleaning cloth
    4. clean the sound drum (big silver drum with a red dot in the middle) with a piece of paper-towel and rubbing alcohol.
  7. Set the silent/sound toggle switch to "sound".
  8. Check the volume control knob.  It should be set to about 11:00 or 11:30.  Treble and bass are usually at 12:00.
  9. Thread the film and run.

Film On Reel Incorrectly - How To Fix

Backward.

Sprocket on the wrong side.