Installing Windows 10

Overview This is an article on my first install of Win10.  Installed Win10 on SPACE due to an issue with the current OS install, Win7 Ultimate.

The current OS was complaining it was not a valid version and therefore I had a few days left before it "expired".

I purchased a download of Win7 Home Premium and a 240GB SSD with the intention of installing the SSD, disconnecting the current C drive, installing Win7 home on the SSD, and then immediately upgrading the SSD install to Win10.

Steps

1)  created a bootable flashdrive and installed Win7 onto the flashdrive.

2)  copied the LHF admin folder to an external drive.

3)  disconnected the C: drive and the I: drive (music backup).  The I: drive had to be disconnected as I needed a SATA connection for the SSD.  (the old C: drive was an IDE).

4)  had to change the BIOS drive stuff from IDE to ACHI before I could get to the SSD.

5)  booted from the flashdrive and installed the OS onto the SSD

6)  downloaded the win10 upgrade tool and run it on SPACE

7)  after upgrade to Win10 I found that the system was rebooting every 1 to 3 hours (not sure exactly).

  • Win10 device manager did not show any device driver errors
  • the reboots seem to complain about something trying to write to read-only memory...indicates a driver issue according to the net
  • I updated the Nvidia driver that was a couple releases out of date...no change
  • downloaded and ran "driver booster 2" and it found 2 drivers way out of date and 1 just old...updated these.  still no change.
  • checked the ASUS drivers on their site and they were all at least 5 years old
  • changed the power save to never shutdown, and the screen saver to 30 minutes...now we've been runs for a few days with no errors.  Didn't want to shutdown anyhow with so many PC's accessing SPACE.

Get a list of programs installed on a PC

Overview When rebuilding a PC it is always really handy to know what programs are installed on a PC.  Here's a simple way to do this:

1)  Search (program files search window) for Windows Easy Transfer.

2)  Run the program...helps to have a flashdrive or HDD connected to the system to write to.

a)  Don't selected all the SHARED ITEMS as this could be huge.  Go into customize and de-select a lot of the shared items.

3)  After the program has been run, there is a Programs Report that could be run (again search for easy transfer....select reports one).  The program will show the report but you cannot print it.  Here is the location of the XML file with the info....just open it in excel:

C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Easy Transfer\PostMigData\2011-10-14\SourceAppList.xml

Reference:

Lots of info on the program:

http://www.technospot.net/blogs/windows-7-easy-transfer-files-users-settings/

NTSC to PAL DVD Conversion

Overview: Customer has a NTSC DVD that they want converted to PAL.

When recreating the DVD the menu cannot be transferred over (without a huge amount of work).  So, we recreate the menu and scene selection by creating markers for each clip and placing these for menu markers.

Steps:

  1. Using Sony Vegas import the media from the DVD.
  2. Place media on the Vegas timeline
  3. Go to UltimateS' marker tab and create "Marks" for each event.
    1. Use "Chapter" or "Scene" plus sequence numbers to create the names.
  4. Create a Region for the whole DVD...all clips.
  5. Render out the regions using UltimateS batch render and select the correct PAL DVD preset (full or widescreen).
  6. Open DVD Arch; choose "Menu Based".
  7. Set to PAL and the correct aspect, 4:3 or 16:9; be aware of the finer details ie., MPEG-2 720x576-50i, 4:3 (PAL).
  8. Create "PLAY ALL" button by right-clicking on the home page and inserting large media file (that incidentally has markers from vegas denoting all the scenes).
  9. Change the 'video' name to "PLAY ALL".
  10. Delete the old PLAY ALL button as you don't need that one.
  11. Right-click on the new PLAY ALL button and click on "Insert Scene Selection Menu..."
  12. You will be asked how many scenes per page; choose 6 or 8 as per the number of scenes (to cut down on the number of pages choose 8). Scenes will be based on the markers within the large media file.
  13. Align items on the first Scene Selection page accordingly; then select all except the page re-direction arrows and then "Copy". You can then select all these same items on the remaining pages and Paste Attributes - All, to copy the formatting on this and other pages using this method.
  14. All the scene selection and menu page links should already be situated at the bottom of the respective page lists so that they will be highlighted last.
  15. prep and burn DVD.

Film Restore - Unshrink or Deshrink

Overview We have a few films that require unshrinking.  Reintroducing plastic into the films base is the idea.

Steps

1)   Mix up solution.

2)   Place solution in bottom of 35mm film can (metal).

3)   Place wire rack in can to provide "shelf" to hold film above solution

4)   Place film on rack.

5)   Close can and leave for 2 to 4 weeks?

Process

The higher the temperature the faster the process.  For example at 10 C it will be months and at 30 C it will be weeks.

Solution

1:1:3 of....Acetone, Gylcerol, and water.  The mixture will evaporate easily so it must be kept in a closed container.

You can also change the mix and it may work a little better.....see the reference below.

Adding camphor for nitrate based film or methyl phthalate (both plasticizers for nitrate and acetate bases respectively) may help in the process.

Testing and Results

(info to be added when testing)

Objective is to test the basic solution without the extra plasticizer.

How much solution do I need?  .....................

June 18, 2015 - placed 50ml of acetone and glycerine and 150ml of filtered water in 35mm can with 2 8mm films (Piedrahita)

References

Restoration Of Motion Picture Film pg 252

Methyl phthalate best deal to purchase

Royal Society of Chemistry website...good info

Synonyms:  Monomethyl phthalate; phthalic acid monomethyl ester; 2-(methoxycarbonyl)benzoic acid; 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, 1-methyl ester

Good website about: Methyl Phthalate etc

 

 

Standard CD Case Cover

Overview How to create a standard CD case cover.

Tools

ACDSee

For editing the content of the case cover

Tag&Rename

For creating the tags and titles etc. for the case cover.

Nero CoverDesigner (v9)

For creating the case cover.

Nero

For moving title data, etc into the case cover.

Steps

  1. Create the wav files for the CD.  Probably using Sony Vegas.  Name the regions, and file names as "nn aaaaa" ...where nn is the track number and aaaa is the title of the track.
  2. Run Tag& Rename to set the tags (on Apollo).
    1. Go to directory with wav files and right click and select "tag&rename"
    2. Copy  the track number and title from the file names.
    3. Add anything else you need to the tags.
  3. Create cover art for the case using ACDSee.
  4. Open Nero Burning ROM and set up the CD
    1.  Drag wav files in
    2. Organize the wav files
    3. Save the nra file
  5. Create the cover
    1. In Nero, under File, select <print disc cover>
    2. This will open Nero Cover Designer and copy the titles etc to the cover.
    3. Edit the cover design and save or print.
    4. NOTE: The back cover insert will be too wide if using photo-paper.  I found that it fits if you move the right edge title from within the template to the left so that the bottom of the title is on the left template guide of the edge title.
  6. I usually use PrintCD to print disc surfaces.

List Of Directories And Count Of Contents

Overview: Sometimes we need to make a list of directories and their sizes or number of files within the directories.

Solution:

Karen's Power Tools has a program called Directory Printer that does many handy things with directories including providing a list of directories with number of files within each directory.  There are many other things the program can also provide.

We have been using the program to create directory lists of all our backup hard drives for years now.

Creating Tags And MetaData For Audio Files

Overview We have a set of audio files for creating a CD (or whatever) and we need to create metadata or tags within the audio files so that this information displays in various players, etc.  This information may also apply to video files.

Tools

Trackalizer script

This script is a free VASST script that assigns the region name as the wav file Title.

MediaInfo

This program can show the metadata of a file.  Standalone program that is also part of the explorer shell.

Sony Vegas

The properties / Summary contains metadata such as artist, copyright and title....however, title is useless here if you have multiple titles, one for each wav region....then use Trackalizer above.

Tag&Rename

The program is a general tag and create metadata program primarily for audio files (wav, mp3, etc).  Also, creates tags from file name components. Even sort of works for mp4.  Currently only have trial version.

AudioShell Tag Editor

Created by the same company as Tag& Rename but free.  This is an tag editor that appears in the explorer window when right click.  This can edit a group of files or files individually.

BWF MetaEdit

Open source metadata editor.   Not as nice a GUI, but very powerful and designed for archivists.  Can also create MD5 checksums and confirm them.  ONLY works on WAV files.

BWF MetaEdit was developed by the Federal Agencies Digitization Guidelines Initiative (FADGI) supported by AudioVisual Preservation Solutions.

This tool permits embedding, editing, and exporting of metadata in Broadcast WAVE Format (BWF) files. This tool can also enforce metadata guidelines developed by the Federal Agencies Audio-Visual Working Group, as well as format specifications from the European Broadcasting Union (EBU), Microsoft, and IBM.

 

Steps

  1. In Sony Vegas, go to the properties / Summary tab and fill in the metadata:  Artist, Copyright
  2. For each song on the timeline, create a region and name the region the song title.
  3. Render the regions into wav files and set each wav file's title metadata to the region name.
  4. Update the Album, genre, year, etc using the Tag&Rename program.

Using Anti-Newton Glass when scanning negatives

Using The ANR Insert for 35 mm Film  

The ANR Insert’s edges have been “lightly swiped” by the glass cutter but have not been fully rounded.  Use protective gloves with the ANR Insert unless you are sure the “light swiping” is enough to prevent cuts to your skin.

 

 

Understanding the Correct Orientation and Insertion of the Glass

 

Hold the ANR Insert at an angle to your room’s light source to determine which side of the insert has the etched surface.  The two images below should help you determine the etched vs. the un-etched sides of the glass.

 

 img1 This first image shows the un-etched side of the glass.  Notice the glare and the sharp/well defined reflection of the tree and clouds.  You DO NOT want your film to touch this side of the glass.
 img2 This second image shows the etched side of the insert.  It is actually reflecting part of the same scene as shown above.  However, please notice there are no defined shapes in this reflection.  In practical terms, you cannot distinguish the reflection of the tree.  You want this side of the glass to come into contact against the film when the ANR Insert is placed down into the holder!
Before placing the 35 mm ANR Insert into the holder, the Epson holder's detachable plastic snap-in frame must be removed from the holder.
Note that the film can't be inserted all the way to the end of the film channel due to the fact that one end has clips (highlighted by red arrows in the picture to the left).
When the film and ANR Insert are correctly inserted, observe how the film does not extend out past the end of the ANR Insert.

 

 

Using the 35 mm Insert

 

The ANR Insert is fairly simple to use with 35 mm film.  Film is placed normally in the holder and the ANR Insert is placed on top the film instead of using the Epson or Canon holder's snap-in frame.

 

 img3 Film must be placed into the film holder so the film arches up and away from the scanner's glass bed.

 

You DO NOT want to insert the film into the holder so that the center of the film bows/sags down toward the scanner's glass bed.  Improper insertion could lead to poor focus and/or Newton Rings if the bowing is significant enough.  Correct orientation will allow the ANR Insert to flatten the film.

 

Epson® recommends inserting the film so the emulsion side (dull side) is facing up and away from the scanner’s glass, thus the manufacturer’s edge markings on the film appear to read backwards (as viewed when the insert is placed into the holder).  If your film is relatively flat, orient the film this way first, but don’t be afraid to experiment with the orientation of the emulsion.  If you scan your film “emulsion side down,” you will need to reverse or flip your image to make it laterally correct.  This is easily accomplished in Photoshop by using the following menu commands: Image > Rotate Canvas > Flip Horizontal.

 

Very Stiff Film

 

Some films are so stiff that the 35 mm ANR Insert cannot flatten them down via its own weight.  In this case, after you insert the 35 mm ANR Insert into the holder you can tape across the ends of the insert to press it down.  Alternatively, you can build up the thickness of the OEM Epson® 35 mm film holder’s posts by wrapping tape around the little protrusions/towers located along the edge of the film channel.  The increased thickness will thus act to “wedge” the ANR Insert in tight when it is placed down into the film holder.

 

Cleaning

 

A 3M® microfiber cloth is recommended for general light cleaning of the ANR Insert.  (These cloths are also great for cleaning your scanner’s glass!)  Wal-Mart sells these for just a few dollars or they can usually be found in any store that sells optical products.

 

Windex and a soft clean cloth that is lint-free can be used to clean the ANR Insert.  An alcohol-based glass cleaner may work somewhat better on the etched side of the insert if you have a stubborn smudge that has embedded itself very deep into the etching.  If that still doesn’t remove the smudge, try a mild degreaser like "Fantastik" or "Formula 409" followed by a second cleaning with the glass cleaner and a second clean cloth.

 

 

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MF Film Holderä  Patents Pending

 

Brumberger Stereomounts for 3D Slides

These were 35mm stereo slide mount made of metal and glass.  Very high end.  We looked at taking them appear to scan and clean.  The top and bottom of the mount each have two holes where the inside of the mount pushes a bump through.  We looked at prying the inside and outside of the mount but found there is VERY little space to pry.  Also, there a warnings about glass mounts that the film may be stuck top the glass and this may cause a problem....either the image gets damaged or you may need to soak the glass and image in distilled water (must have NO minerals otherwise more issues). Here's an image of the mount:

http://www.digitalstereoscopy.com/kaiser/m214n215.htm

Here's instructions and image of putting these mounts together:

http://www.digitalstereoscopy.com/kaiser/m248n249.htm

 

Posting a Deposit For A Project

Overview When a customer provides a deposit, the deposit should actually become a liability and therefore reside under liabilities until the project has been invoiced.

This method will also record the deposit on the invoice for the customer's records and it will provide a receipt for the deposit.

Steps

  1. Create the customer.
  2. Create a Sales Receipt for the customer's deposit.
    1. Use "Advance Deposit" item and update the amount to the deposit amount.
    2. This should post the deposit to the "Undeposited Funds" account and should also post the deposit to the "Advanced Customer Payments" liability account.  The deposit should not show under P&S's sales, but will show under the Liabilities on the Balance Sheet.
  3. Deposit the "Undeposited Fund" as normal to the chequing account.
  4. Create the invoice when the project is done (or when we need to bill).  Add a line item, "advance deposit", to the invoice and use QTY of -1 and the amount should be the deposit amount.  This will clear the deposit from the liability account.
  5. The invoice will now show the invoiced items and the deposit and the balance  will show the outstanding amount.

Retro Film Output Formats

Currently here is the list of output options from the Retro units:

  • Sequenced jpg's
    • 1920x1080, 0.5MB
  • MP4
    • Sony AVC/MVC 1920x180-30p 16Mbps
    • Use this setting to create the highest quality 16:9 file suitable for uploading to Internet sites. Audio: 128 Kbps, 48,000 Hz, 32 Bit, Stereo, AAC Video: 29.970 fps, 1920x1080 Progressive, YUV, 16 Mbps Pixel Aspect Ratio: 1.000
  • AVI
    • NTSC DV Widescreen progressive 30Mbps
    • Widescreen NTSC DV video files compatible with Sony Video Capture. Audio: 48,000 Hz, 16 Bit, Stereo, PCM Video: 29.970 fps, 720x480 Progressive, NTSC DV Wide Pixel Aspect Ratio: 1.212
  • MXF
    • HD422 1920x1080-24p 50 Mbps
    • Audio: 48,000 Hz, 24 Bit, Stereo, PCM Video: 23.976 fps, 1920x1080 Progressive, MPEG HD422 Pixel Aspect Ratio: 1.000

 

Micro Cassette Transfer To Digital

Overview A micro cassette is a small audio cassette that was commonly used in answering machines, dictation machines, and small format audio recorders.

Equipment

We have a Sony Micro Cassette-corder M-601.  The unit is capable of playing in 2 speeds, 1.2 or 2.4 cm/sec (or 15/16 or 15/32 ips).  The recording is 2 track, 1 channel, monoaural.

DO NOT TOUCH THE PAUSE BUTTON - the pause button gets stuck and will not come back up without taking the unit apart.

Set Up

The M-601 is packed in it's original box on the shelf.

  1. Unpack the unit.
  2. Check the m-601 batteries, push PLAY to activate the battery indicator.
  3. Plug the stereo (or mono/either or) phone cable (M-M) into the earphone jack on the side of the unit.
  4. Plug the other end of the mono/stereo-phono cable into the Echo patch box with a MONO jack only - ISSUES ARISE when this is inadvertently swapped with a STEREO JACK.  Use analogue input 7 ON THE ECHO (LAYLA).... the same input that was used for the Super8 audio input whence we digitized Super8 audio separately. This set-up can then be tested by simply pulling the stereo/mono plug from the Micro deck.
  5. On MUSIC open the Micro-Mono-Anolog7 audio veg file and setup the folder to record into.
  6. Test the tape, ie. this can be done by simply pulling the stereo plug from the machine.
  7. Rewind tape and record.

16mm Film Audio Transfer

Overview Currently we are transferring 16mm film using the Retro-16 Pro to scan the film and the Sniper-16 HD to scan the optical audio.  After scanning, I drop the Retro16 footage on the Vegas timeline and the Sniper footage with audio on the Vegas timeline below.  The audio will be sync'ed up with the footage from the Sniper...now we need to sync the audio to the footage from the Retro.  The Sniper footage can be a big help, as you can line up the frames between the Sniper and Retro footage.

Notes:

The audio track should be the "master" and you should not really change the audio track speed or length, etc.  Change the Retro footage....much simpler.

Sync Procedure

  1. Drop footage from both Retro and Sniper onto the timeline.  The Sniper will automatically include the audio track.
  2. Find the middle of the footage and mark it...preferably at a scene change.
  3. Go to the end and check the footage sync....mark scene changes
  4. Go to the start and find a scene change and mark it
  5. If the scenes are in sync, your done....if not continue
  6. I went through the timeline and marked the Retro and Sniper video scene selections.
    1. I used "sync" for the Sniper and "SYNC" for the Retro.
    2. I also made a note in the Retro mark of the distance between the marks.
  7. In my example I found the last 60% of the footage was in sync and the first 40% was not
    1. The 40% not in sync was about 27 seconds out at the start and the gap between the outage narrowed to 0 seconds by the time we were 40% into the footage.  To bad there is no graduated stretch.
    2. I basically cut up the 40% into scenes and stretched each scene...this meant each scene would be a decreasing stretch, in my case, as we approached the 40% mark.
    3. I started by finding the first scene change and splitting it.
    4. Then I moved the scene so the start lined up with the Sniper footage.
    5. Then I stretched the footage on the right until the footage lined up with the end of the Sniper scene.
    6. Then I checked to make sure the audio was in sync for this scene.
    7. I continued this cut, line-up, stretch until the 40% footage was done.
    8. Then I checked to make sure the audio was in sync for the entire footage.

Sticky Tape Syndrome

Overview Tapes we are talking about can be video tapes or audio tapes....they are all basically the same type of construction.  Tapes can absorb moisture over time and the surface can become sticky.  This sticky tape syndrome will prevent the tape form being transferred as the tape will gum up the heads on the reading machine.

What Causes This To Happen 

  • Storing the tapes in a very humid environment....like the tropics
  • Some audio tapes have been known to be more likely to break down over time

Solution

Tape baking is a common practice to remove the moisture.  We have a Excalibur Dehydrator that we use to bake the tape.

Bake the tape at 120 degrees F for 4 to 8 hours.  TESTED.

Test

Tape:  BC Lib tape 2008-058 tape #1 on May 2, 2015

Came across a reel-to-reel tape that squeaked a lot in the middle of the tape and also left reside/dust below the machine and in the path.  The tape's digital file was good at the start and end but muffled and screechy in the middle.  The tape physically appeared different looking at it from the side of the reel....the first 1/4 inch of tape looked different (lighter in colour) than the rest of the tape.

Baked the tape at 130 F in the dehydrator for about 5 hours.  Let the tape acclimatize hanging on the reel-to-reel deck for about 20-30 minutes.  Ran the tape...no squealing and the digital file was perfect!!

U-Matic (20 minute tape) tape on May 20, 2015

Ran the tape and captured the audio and some of the video later on in the tape.  The tape had 2 musical numbers on it and only the second number sort of captured....the first one only the audio and the video was major snow!  Ran a test tape with bars and found the same snow and okay audio capture.  Cleaned the heads (several times...until no dirt appeared) and re-ran test tape...bars and audio good!

Baked the tape at 125 F in the dehydrator for 8-9 hours (in at 8am out at 5pm?).

Sample of Before and After

Before:

[audio mp3="http://www.lifetimeheritagefilms.com/knowledgebase/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/sticky-shed-sample-bad.mp3"][/audio]

After - (fixed via baking):

Reference:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sticky-shed_syndrome

The link below describes baking U-Matic tapes:

https://blogs.library.duke.edu/bitstreams/2014/04/09/digitization-details-bringing-duke-living-history-into-your-future/

Mounting Reel-to-Reel Tape

Overview Reel-to-reel tapes should be mounted on the left spindle with the tape coming off the reel on the left hand side.  The tape has a glossy side and a dull side.  The glossy side should be facing out on the reel and the dull side should be coming down and against the heads.  Sometimes the leader will have a strip pattern...this should be facing out.

Issues

Tape Sounds Muffled

The tape will sound muffled if the tape has been digitized from the back side!  The tape has a glossy side and a dull side.  The glossy side should be facing out on the reel and the dull side should be coming down and against the heads.

RetroScan Capture Problems and Solutions

General Conventions Invariably each filming situation inherently comes with it's own prescribed settings needed for capture. With this list a collection of problems and solutions will be examined, described, and provided a solution with the most recent convention used. As the proficiency with the RetroScan increases updates to these solutions will be fine tuned.

The RetroScan comes with basic recommended settings which in cases that do not meet correctly shot film standards adjustments to the settings are made to suit the footage in question. Firstly, the Sensor Knob is set to the point just after (clockwise) where the film has stopped and is now moving smoothly. The sensitivity knob is used to calibrate the RetroScan to the sprocket holes and is referenced with the strobing green light that is to pulse every time a sprocket hole is counted. It should be rare that the sensitivity knob need be adjusted, and should be positioned (currently) at about 8:55. The setting of the sensitivity knob is just clockwise of the "chugging sound" that occurs when it is trying to keep up with the number of sprocket holes, you will note that dropped frames are noticeable when "sped-up action" occurs on the screen.

Next, the exposure knob is optimized at the noon (the 12 o'clock) position and normally should be kept as close to this position as possible (currently 11 o'clock works right now) given optimum footage.

The big brass "Cam Knob" is used to alter the very slight difference needed to adjust for the sprocket holes. While this appears to adjust the framing it is meant to be used for the sprocket hole calibration. However, it is safe to use in this regard when Image Stablization is not in use. Otherwise the "Framer" lever should be used for framing. It is implied that when Image Stabilization IS used that the Cam Knob NOT be used.

As well, the exposure knob needn't  be changed once set. It is conventional thinking that leaving a richer image from the RetroScan machine side of things allows for more fine tuning at the capture, and later the vegas timeline side of things. this rationale seems to work especially for over exposed footage.

Problem: Over exposed footage.

Solution: use recommended settings on the machine, minimize the use of gain so that there will be substance to work with in Vegas. Once in vegas adjust with Ultimate S's Sony Levels and raise the output level to 0. Then increase the gain if needed.

Problem: Under exposed footage.

Solution: Hmmm....

Item: Clear edge film does not process well with Image Stabilization ON.

 

Problem: Ripped / Damaged Sprocket Holes

Solution: One recent job had a slight rip from sprocket to sprocket, for a stretch of 3 to 5 sprockets. This would cause a capture that jumped up out of frame and/or jump to the left/right. It was necessary to capture this film with stabilization OFF. Little could be done to correct the remaining bumps and or jumps of the capture - they had to be edited on the timeline.

Create a Film Project with DVD Architect Pro

  1. Select a previously made custom LHF theme/template specifically made for either DVD's or Blueray disks depending on the project. In effect this "reverse engineering" of a previously completed project saves a lot of time.
  2. Within the first "Scene Selection" page copy the "attributes" of the first film, ie. the upper left film.  Then delete all but the lower right film which will then be used for alignment of the right-side list of films. The attributes copied will position the then "insert(ed) media" as a list from the upper left position. This makes it easy then to Control-click that first position in the list to leave it in position, then do the same for the others in the list as they are placed in their appropriate spots on the page. Remember, the page is treated as two columns from top to bottom, left column, then the right column.
  3. When selecting multiple films while "Insert(ing) Media" DVD Architect will place the items in a list starting with the most recently chosen item. This means you need to select the films in reverse order to that which you want them to appear on the page. For example: instead of selecting film 01, film 02, film 03, film 04, etc.., select (to have typically 6 on a page) Film 06, Film 05, ..., to Film 01. Holding down the Control Key and selecting each film individually allows for this kind of control in creating a 'reverse list'. By replacing these new films for the current project and deleting the prior films from this template in effect the PLAY ALL on the main menu page will automatically be depleted and can be repopulated as in step 11.
  4. Having referred to the "My Films" text file generated by the customer (placed in the Bin folder), and already having organized the pages (by creating spaces in the list to itemize pages and subsequently DVD's), you will easily be able to correspond the Scene Selection pages and DVDs accordingly. Pay close attention to the "Sort Id" column as this is the order as prescribed by the customer; this will not always be the order of the films as they had been scanned, or the numbered order as per the render folder.
  5. Of the files within the renders folder only the "mpg" files needed be selected, it will pull along with it the required audio file.
  6. Fine tuning of the aligning of films on the scene selection pages can be done with the Align Left and the Align Top tools. Also, when moving films and slightly overlapping them with corresponding films will show a highlighting of the films that you would like to align with; this with proficiency can eliminate the need for the align tools altogether. Also, "Control" + an arrow key will give fine nudge tuning. Do not leave the items overlapped, a warning will be listed regarding this when burning.
  7. Adding a Menu Page can be done by right clicking on the Scene Selection folder in the directory list to the left. Arrow links to subsequent pages will be included automatically.
  8. Aligning the "Scene Selection" text on the page can be done by copying attributes from a previous page, this way all pages become uniform. Paste (all) attributes to the new page item.
  9. Once the films are aligned and in the prescribed order titles can then be copied from the My Films text file and placed with the corresponding film on the Scene Selection page(s). Usually this is comprised of a year followed by a string of text chosen/confirmed by the customer.
  10. A check of the flow through from the Scene Selection page to page can be done to assure that a logical sequencing and complete access to all films and pages are possible.
  11. The "PLAY ALL" button can now be populated by "inserting" a "playlist" to the PLAY ALL button link. This is done on the lower half of the screen by clicking on the "PLAY ALL" in the directory, ALSO selecting PLAY ALL in the drop-down list in the lower part of the screen, then click on the PLUS sign to "insert playlist ITEMS". Choose "Select All" and OK. This will populate the list below. Be sure to compare this list with the order that is shown in the directory to the left of the screen. Correct the playlist item order if it is not.
  12. The project should be ready to burn to disc. From the "Make DVD" button at the top menu, a dialogue box will appear. Usually "Burn" is selected to immediately burn a disk. Prepare can be selected to only create the VIDEO_TS folder and VOB files. This prepare can then be burned at a later date. Otherwise select "Burn". A Prepare location for the files will need to specified, usually within the project folder. Click Next. The next dialogue box will specify any errors that may need to be corrected before proceeding; such as broken links. When fixed click Next. The next dialogue box will ask what speed to burn at. Choose the speed one step lower than the maximum speed available.
  13. When discs are burned they are ready to have the Disc Surfaces printed on them. There are other Knowledgebase articles that cover this process of preparing and disc surfaces, dvd case covers for this purpose.

RetroScan process

From the Retro machines the film processing migrates along in the system to various folders. This is the process:

  • RetroScan scans the film and the raw file is created in the RetroScan  Albums under the Q: drive of Thor; the raw file is a .film file.
  • these files from the RetroScan are then "exported" as jpg files into the RetroScanExports folder on the S: drive of Thor
  • from Vegas the timeline is produced and edited; from here the exported file (the jpg's) is imported and then "rendered out" as (typically) an AVI, and/or MXF, and/or MP4 file depending on the customer use, and placed in the Renders folder on the S: drive and may then be moved elsewhere on the system if needed for editing (ie. sound editing) and or DVD authoring. The Vegas "veg" file is stored in the RetroAlbum folder (Q:drive) with the name of the client, the folder is named with the client name and is preceded by the date created.

 

Fonts - master group for LHF

We store a master group of fonts in the folder: U:\User Data\All Users\Fonts

This has all the fonts that we've come across over the years.

In order to update the fonts of a PC:

1) Open control panel

2) Select the Fonts icon

3) Go to the master fonts folder, select all fonts, copy, and paste into the Fonts window opened in the previous step.

NOTE:  Some fonts will not copy...so monitor the copy so that you can answer the prompts (otherwise it will stop and not finish until you do).